Saturday, 15 December 2018
Needleroll

Materials:

Stitched piece
Thread to match fabric - 1 strand of DMC will suffice
Perle cotton No 12
Needle
Pins
Basting thread
Stuffing
Ribbon

Usual needleroll finishing instructions will now tell you to finish with rights sides together and then turn inside out. Please note these instructions are different - all finishing is done with the right side out!


Working on the back of your stitching:

Count up 26 fabric threads from the top of the stitching and remove the next 4 horizontal fabric threads. This space is for your ribbon.
Count up a further 26 fabric threads and remove the next 3 fabric threads. This space will be for your hem-stitching.
Count up a further 12 fabric threads and remove the 13th thread. This is a fold line.
Count up a further 11 fabric threads and remove the 12th thread. This is a fold line.
Count up a further 9 fabric threads and remove the 10th thread. This will be your cutting line.
Turn your stitching upside down and repeat the above.
Your piece should look like this at both top and bottom of your linen.




Do NOT cut anything yet!

On the front side of your stitching, in the space marked 'Space for back-stitching', back-stitch over 4 vertical threads with No 12 Perle cotton pulling the stitch fairly taut.




Once the back-stitching is done on both top and bottom you can cut across the cutting lines and begin to fold - firstly on the fold line and then on the back-stitch line so the 'picots' lie at the top of the 'Space for hem-stitching'















Firstly pin and then baste the hem in place with basting thread and remove the pins. Do not try to miss out any of these steps as it is far easier to hem-stitch with a basted hem than a pinned hem. Can you see the back-stitching standing proud on the top of the hem?

Now for the hem-stitching picking up 3 threads using the thread to match your fabric. If you are using DMC use 1 strand.

Your piece should now look like this:





Once you have completed the hem-stitching on the top and bottom of the needleroll you now count out 11 threads from the side of the stitching and back-stitch over four threads in the next line of 'holes' again with perle cotton number 12 but this time do NOT pull tight. Count out a further 20 threads and remove the 21st thread. This is your cutting line. Repeat this on the other side of the stitching.






Cut away the excess fabric on both cutting lines. It should now look like this. Seems a shame to cut off some of the beautiful hem-stitching doesn't it?




Overlock/serge the cut edge and then finger press along the back-stitching on both sides






Bring the two sets of back-stitching together and catching these stitches only to join the sides together. The cut/overlocked edges will now be on the inside of the roll. Tuck in any threads from your overlocking/serging. 





Mark the centres both top and bottom of the design




Thread your ribbon over and under two threads working your way back to where you started. Do not pull yet but repeat on both top and bottom. Once your ribbon is threaded pull the bottom ribbon tight and tie but leave the ends hanging. 




Now stuff your needle roll firmly and once you are satisfied the roll in the right shape - roll it between your hands. Pull tight and tie the top ribbon and then tie both lots of ribbons into bows. 



You now have a finished needleroll which can be displayed with your pillows or other other needlerolls in a bowl or a basket. You can also add a 'hanger' by threading a piece of ribbon or cord through a card 'button' (draw around a small coin and make two holes - or use a real button if you wish). Tie the ends of the ribbon together and place the 'button' inside the top of the needle roll before you pull the top ribbon tight. The 'button' will keep the ribbon inside the roll. This is ideal for you to hang the Christmas needleroll on your tree. 



I also stitched the same design 1 over 1 on 40ct linen and finished as a matching pillow. The needle roll is for my great grand-daughter Primrose and the matching pillow is for her parents. 

This chart for this design - Christmas Needleroll 2018 - can be found *here*  





All these pictures can be enlarged for a closeup view of each step by clicking on them




 
posted by Carol R at 03:39 | Permalink | 0 comments
Thursday, 8 February 2018
Hem-stitching banding


Materials needed:
Length of banding
Needle
Scissors
Pins
Basting thread
Co-ordinating thread

I usually hem-stitch my banding top and bottom before stitching my sampler but you can do this after you finish your project if you wish



Firstly trim the banding so the edge is straight


Working on the wrong side of the banding fold over the top edge to your required depth of the hem. Mine is ¼"


Fold over again and pin


Baste - I should have used a darker thread - I hope you can see this ok?




Remove two threads where the fold of the hem touches the main part and weave the ends into the hem


Now hem-stitch the folded edge using an away waste knot that can be removed at a later stage. Pick up three threads and pull snugly to open the holes. If you are using the hole-edged banding or lace-edged banding slip stitch both ends into place 



Here is the finished hem. Repeat the above steps to finish off the bottom end of your banding. Remember to mark the front of the banding so your hems are on the same side!

All of the above pictures can be enlarged for a closeup view by clicking on them. 









 
posted by Carol R at 03:39 | Permalink | 2 comments
Sunday, 22 October 2017
Christmas Spool
Materials:

Your stitched band
1 wood spool
Thread to match the linen banding
1 metre of chiffon ribbon
1 button with a shank



1 Press your stitched banding - you may care to put iron on interfacing on the back although I didn't.





2 Leave two threads from the stitching and stitch a row of back-stitches over 2 threads




3 Fold the banding at these stitches and then trim to 1cm








3 Wrap the banding around the spool, pin and join the backstitches together by picking up a stitch from each side. Finish off by losing the threads inside.






4 Make two bows from the ribbon. I used the fork method - there are loads of tutorials online of how to do this - wrap twice to get a double bow.





5 Thread the ribbon onto the shank of the button and knot together. Then thread the ribbon through the hole in the spool making sure you lose the knot inside the spool. 



6. Using thread to match your ribbon in your needle pass the thread though the first bow a couple of time and then through the double loops close to the spool. Pass the needle through the second bow and then back and forth a few times through the bows and the loop. Fasten off. Trim the ends of the ribbon bows.

You should now have a finished spool!



This design is called Christmas Spool 2017 and is available in kit form (custom made wood spool, chart and 4cm linen banding) for $25 plus p/p from iStitch Designs *here*






 
posted by Carol R at 04:20 | Permalink | 0 comments
Sunday, 31 March 2013
Miniature Hornbook

Materials:

Stitched piece
1 small  piece of card or skirtex
1 small piece of wadding/batting
Glue - I used both Aileen's Crystal Clear Tacky Spray and Aileen's Quick Dry Tacky (not shown in the picture)
Needle and thread
Small hornbook from Image Stitchery Designs (2½" x 2")






Cut the card/skirtex to fit slightly inside the stitched border. 





Spray this card with the Crystal Clear Tacky Spray and place on the wadding/batting. Once this has dried cut around the card





Cut around your stitched piece to leave a ½" margin











Place the card with the batting face down on the back of your stitching and fold this around the card. Mitre the corners before you begin lacing and press. Lace the stitching starting in the middle and working sideways. Repeat to the other end. Lace opposite sides is the same way. When you get to the corners work tiny stitches to close the mitred corners. 





Try to get this as flat as possible. Press again if necessary.

Now spread Eileen's Quick Dry Tacky glue onto the hornbook and place your stitched piece (right side up!) making sure you have even margins all round.




Place pegs around the hornbook and leave to dry. You can also place a weight on top. If any glue squidges out remove it with a cocktail stick before it dries.

You can, if you wish surround your stitching with a twisted cord or any other trim

Although these instructions refer to a 'miniature' hornbook they will, of course, work for any size hornbook






Sew Petite chart is available *here*






 
posted by Carol R at 05:02 | Permalink | 2 comments
Wednesday, 27 February 2013
Quaker Pin Wheel


Materials:

Stitched piece
2 card circles cut to size. I stitched on 40ct linen and my circles measure 1 1/5"
2 circles cut from wadding/batting the same size as the card circles
1 circle of backing fabric - my circle here measures approximately 2½-3"
Glue - I used Aileen's Quick Dry Tacky as this dries clear
Needle and thread (I used Nymo thread)
Decorative pins







Glue the wadding/batting circles to the card circles and leave to dry. I put a weight on top to ensure they stick evenly






Cut your stitched piece out the same size as the backing fabric. Taking a needle and thread run stitches around the edges of both your stitched piece and the same with the backing fabric 












Place the card with batting against the fabric and in the centre and then pull tight so the fabric gathers around the card and tie








Even out the fabric and then lace tightly in a circular fashion. Try to get the fabrics to lay as close to the card as possible to get a really flat finish





When you are satisfied that your stitching is centred and both pieces are laced tightly and as flat as possible, put glue onto the wrong side/laced sides of both cards leaving a small gap to the outside edge as the glue will squidge out slightly when you put the sides together






Place wrong (glued) sides together and place pegs around the circles and leave to dry. Make sure the edges are held together tightly. If any glue squidges out remove it with a cocktail stick before it dries






Once the glue is dry, evenly space the pins around the wheel - 3 more to go in here. 






If you are not happy with the edges, you can cover this with narrow ribbon, twisted cord or any decorative trim






Voila - three little Quaker pinwheels - A, B and C! 



Sew a Quaker Pinwheel chart is available *here*






 
posted by Carol R at 03:08 | Permalink | 2 comments